mercredi 15 août 2007

So here we are in Ampus



Aaaah Ampus!

That magical name synonymous with relaxation, Pastis, sun and holidays. Ampus is a tiny hamlet, pop. 100, located up in the hills of the Var, the south eastern French département that overlooks St Tropez and those other fancy Cote d'Azur resorts. I've been going there every summer for years, my friend Olivia's dad has an old house nearby, up in the hills, in the middle of the olive groves, tucked away from the rest of civilisation.

It is hard to describe the Ampus area, no matter how much you try -the sheer beauty of the place, miles away from anywhere.

Maybe a word on the house itself: two stone cottages, one made up of two bedrooms (one up one down), the other (the main building) has got the kitchen (complete with massive fireplace for roasting chickens and grilling sausages) which is the definite center of the house. It has a huge wooden table and two benches and about 8 can sit round it cosily. There are pottery fruitbowls. It's got a stone sink and you can't drink the water, and all the other details that tell you you're in a real country house.
Upstairs is the master bedroom and a corridor/room that is full of beds. The basic structure of the place dates back to the 16th century, though of course it is all about the outside: one terrace, between the two cottages is thatched, the other, in front of the main building gives out on to a multi-green hued valley and the distant town of Draguignan. The olive trees glow silvery green, the background pines dark emerald, dry golden straw and warm pinky stone, the buzz of cicadas.

Then there is the ambience.

It all starts with Arnaud, Olivia's dad, ex- soixante-huitard politically hyperactive, rabid left-winger who can talk for hours and hours. He is the main source of amusement and debate. His philosophy for Ampus is that people can do whatever they want, "on est libre à Ampus!", and we do. In the evenings we have apéritifs and then all crowd around the dinner table and drink and talk in to the night, fuelled by gallons (usually 10 liter cubits) of local plonk.

A bunch of us are regulars: some years are chaotic (like last year, when there were about 15 of us including a rock band for all of 7 beds), others years are more quiet. This year there were about ten of us: the pater familias Arnaud, his girlfriend Véronique and her son Romain, Olivia, Axelle, Chook & myself, Véro's brother and girlfriend and his 7 year old boy. Laurent, an old friend of the family who is a philosopher-peasant that looks like Jesus, a fascinating and brilliant man, popped over for a couple of days.

The days fly by: we sometimes go to the nearby lac de Ste Croix, the biggest artificial lake in Europe which has crystal clear waters and a variety of beaches. (Some rocky and deserted,
other has pebbles with a bar and a huge bouncy castle in the water. Axelle, Chook, Valentin the year old and I had a terrific time on that). Other days we just lounge in the sun reading and waiting for apéritif time. This year we also went down the olive groves to the abandoned stone cottage that we (mainly Olivia and Anthony to be fair) have started doing up. Chook started building a table, Olivia created steps leading down; we dusted and dug and raked and swept, let's hope our efforts still show next year! What else? Memorable moments include an invasion of flying ants, driving down to the lake throught vineyard/olive tree/ little villages countryside with music blasting, having fun on a huge trampoline/slide bouncy castle on the lake, endless debates in the evening on the value of culture, politics and other subjects that are born from extensive alcohol consumption and, on our last night, a rather funny little episode.

We had whacked our way through pastis and melon liqueur, then through about ten liters of wine with our flame grilled sausages and the night got darker, the debates louder. Suddenly, 56 year old Arnaud bellowed, "Let's go & see the precipice!!". "Hurray!" we all drunkenly cried.
It appears he owns a plot of land that gives on to a precipice and that is only accessible by going through the neighbour's garden ("l'enculé!!!"). So it looked like this: 9 drunken adults in
shorts/skirts/sandals/fliplops went whacking down the overgrown olive terraces (slope of around 30 degrees), through thorns, bushes, bugs. We couldn't go down together so the first person had the torch (the 7 year old's, about as bright as a flickering candle), then a huge chain of us crashed down behind. We got to the precipice (invisible in the total dark, the moon was hidden away behind the house) and star-gazed; the milky way shone, shooting stars darted about; we sat and stared in awe.

After a while, we crashed back up to the house, as delicately as we had left. C'est l'été... and to quote Arnaud's favorite phrase "On n'est pas bien à Ampus?...". Yes, we certainly were.

vendredi 3 août 2007

So here we are at la flèche d'or

La flèche d'or is a famous bar/concert hall that is built on old railway tracks in eastern Paris. Furykane were playing there last night, last Parisian concert before they head off to Germany and the Emerganza international final. (Video available as soon as I figure how to put it online).

They played first so there weren't that many people, but the sound was great and they are playing better every time. Another band to look out for is Ace Out who were also playing and set the room on fire.

The evening was especially good (despite outrageously high prices for beer- 4€50 for a demi) because I was with my gorgeous Chook who is back after 3 months away working in SE Asia (mainly Thailand and Vietnam).

Welcome home!!!!!!!